RELOADING TIDBITS
I talk to a lot of shooters about reloading. Among the more experienced shooters, there seems to be some consistency in equipment and ideas. I thought I would take a little time to share some of the techniques that have proven themselves over my 13+ years of highpower competition, and 8 years of reloading for the AR type rifles. Although these ideas are directed towards the AR shooter, most will be applicable for any type of rifle reloading. None of this information is meant to take the place of any good reloading manual. I just thought I would share my experiences with you, especially those new to reloading. It can be a little intimidating at first, but it is very easy, with the right tools and some common sense.
Manuals
I like the Lyman manual for one reason. Lyman does not produce or sell brass, bullets, primers or powder. I feel they have the most un-biased view of reloading.
Brass and brass preparation
I have used Lake City brass for many years. The quality and consistency is better than I could have imagined for a product produced in such mass quantities. I start with primer pocket prep. Using the Wilson primer pocket reamer, chucked in my cordless drill, hundreds of cases can be reamed in a short period of time. My next step is flash hole de-burring. Some don't feel the need, but this, like primer pocket reaming, is a one time deal. I can't help but feel that this can be beneficial. Other than a run through the Gracie case trimmer, my cases are now ready.
Sizing Brass
I have found this to be the most critical part of reloading for the AR. The first thing I suggest is the purchase of a Hornady Case Comparatot (formerly the Stoney Point Case Comparator).
This is, in my mind, the most valuable tool you can own for reloading. When running loads as hot as I do (and many other folks), you need to know as much about your loads as possible. The AR can be very sensitive to case length. I have seen many pierced primers, blown primers, etc., while on the range. I would dare to say that almost all of these events could have been avoided by properly sizing the cases. I have found, and have verified with others, that setting the shoulder back .002 from the fired length, seems to work the best. To much set back, and you have blown primers and over stressed cases. To little set back, pierced primers and other pressure problems. This is where the Stoney Point Case Comparator comes into play. It is the only way to really know how long your cases are. It is the best money you will ever spend.
Next, primers
I started out using the W-W standard primers, but four or five years ago moved to the Federal 205M, match primers. Some say they are to soft, but when seated properly will perform well. In my chronograph work, the standard deviations have been really impressive. I use the RCBS hand held priming tool. This is a quality tool, with a good feel. It makes quick work of a plate full of primers.
On to powders.
I know a few of my friends will not agree with me, but forget the ball powders! To temperature sensitive! The extruded powders are the way to go. Yes, I know, way to slow to load. I like X's, and I like stick powders. Reloader-15, Varget, and VihtaVuori seem to work great. I have personally been shooting Reloader-15 for 5 years, and will not give it up. Takes a little more time, but it is well worth it. Shooting is a pretty expensive sport, and I want to get the most BANG ( xxx's) for my buck.
Dies.
Use a quality die. I like the Forster Bonanza dies. They seem to be a good blend of quality and price. In my long range rifle I use the Redding dies. You can just feel the quality when you use the Redding's. The micrometer adjustment for seating depth is also a must. Just record your reading for the particular bullet, and it becomes a snap to set the die for your next reloading session.
Bullets.
For 200 & 300 yds, you can't beat the 69 gr Sierra for quality, consistency, and price. You may give up a little at 300 yds in the wind, but those 69's really group. At 600 yds, the 80 gr Sierra still rules. Most seem to like them just a little short of the lands, but my personal experience shows that when touching the lands they perform best.( For me anyway) This is where the Stoney Point Bullet Comparator comes into play. This is a perfect way to measure the length of your rounds, not from the bullet tip, but from the ogive. For me, a must on the reloading bench.
What I shoot.
Here are the loads that I either shoot now, or have shot recently.
200 & 300 yds
Space Gun w/ 26" Krieger Barrel- Lake City case, Federal 205M primer, 24.2 grs R-15, 69gr Sierra Match King, moly coated, at mag length. This load runs 2899 fps.
Service Rifle w/20" Krieger Barrel- Lake City case, Federal 205M primer, 24.4 grs R-15, 69gr Sierra Match King, moly coated, mag length. This loads runs 2780 fps.
600 yds
Space Gun w/ 26" Krieger Barrel- Lake City case, segregated by weight. Federal 205M primer, 24.3 grs of R-15, 80gr Sierra, moly coated, touching the lands. This load runs 2854 fps.
Service Rifle w/ 20" Krieger Barrel- Lake City case, segregated by weight. Federal 205M primer, 24.3 grs of R-15, 80gr Sierra Match King, moly coated, touching the lands. This load runs 2700 fps.
In closing.
These loads are pretty universal anymore. Give 'em a try. Work up slowly and see what happens. Consult a good manual. I always welcome tips, or even criticism, so feel free to drop me a line. Never to late to learn something new. GOOD SHOOTING!
HOW TO BUILD AN OVERALL LENGTH GAUGE
To really know where you are with respect to the lands of your AR, you must be able to measure accurately the distance to the lands. Here's how I made my own OAL gauge, and it really works!!
Step 1) Size a .223 case as you normally would.
Step2) With the case on your bench, take a utility knife with a NEW blade, and rest the blade across the case mouth, pushing down easily and rock slightly. You want to split the case mouth in two places, down the full length of the neck.
Step3) Drill and tap the flash hole of the case for a 12-24 machine screw. ( You will need a 12-24 machine screw about 2" in length.)
Step4) Re-size the piece of brass.
Step 5) Seat a bullet into the case, and pull with a kinetic puller. Repeat this 2-3 times.
Your OAL gauge is now ready. With the rifle upper held securely in a vice or other device, start a bullet in to the case mouth. Also, start the screw into the flash hole.
Insert the case into the chamber of the rifle. With a long, narrow, straight bladed screw driver, push the case as far into the chamber as it will go (pushing on the brass, not the screw). Don't muscle it to much! You have just found the OAL to the lands. ( + - .002). Now take a screwdriver and snug the screw up until it touches the base of the bullet. You can now bump the whole unit out of the chamber with a cleaning rod and jag. Use your bullet comparator to measure the OAL.
You now have the distance to the lands. Repeat 3-4 times and take the average. This REALLY WORKS!.